Air leakage accounts for 15-30% of cooling load in typical homes. Learn to calculate ACH, test with blower doors, and seal cost-effectively to reduce AC capacity requirements.
ACH measures how many times per hour your home's entire air volume is replaced by outdoor air through leaks, cracks, and gaps. An ACH of 0.5 means half your indoor air leaks out and is replaced by outdoor air every hour.
Why it matters for cooling: Every cubic foot of hot, humid outdoor air that infiltrates must be cooled and dehumidified. A leaky 2,000 sq ft home with 1.2 ACH brings in 16,000 cubic feet of 95°F outdoor air per hour—requiring 4,000-6,000 BTU/hr just to condition infiltration air.
Our BTU calculator includes infiltration in load calculations. This guide helps you understand and reduce ACH for lower cooling requirements.
🌬️ Typical ACH Rates by Home Type
How ACH Affects Cooling Load
Infiltration Load Formula
BTU/hr = (Volume × ACH × Temp Difference × 0.018) + (Volume × ACH × Humidity Factor)
Sensible Heat (Temperature):
BTU/hr = Home Volume (cu ft) × ACH × (Outdoor Temp - Indoor Temp) × 0.018
Latent Heat (Humidity):
BTU/hr = Home Volume × ACH × (Outdoor Humidity - Indoor Humidity) × 0.68
For this home's total load of 28,000 BTU, reducing infiltration by 5,500 BTU allows downsizing from 2.5 tons to 2 tons—saving $800-1,200 on equipment plus $150-250/year in operating costs.
Measuring Your Home's ACH
Method 1: Blower Door Test (Most Accurate)
What it does: Pressurizes home to 50 Pascals, measures airflow needed to maintain pressure
Results: ACH50 (air changes per hour at 50 Pa pressure) and CFM50 (cubic feet per minute leakage)
Cost: $300-500 as standalone test, $150-250 as part of energy audit
Convert ACH50 to natural ACH: ACH natural ≈ ACH50 ÷ 20 (typical divide factor)
Example Blower Door Results:
Test result: ACH50 = 12 (12 air changes per hour at 50 Pa)
Natural ACH: 12 ÷ 20 = 0.6 ACH under normal conditions
Rating: Tight home (0.5-0.7 ACH is good for non-Passive House)
Method 2: Estimation by Home Age/Type
Pre-1940 homes: 1.5-2.5 ACH (very leaky)
1940-1980 homes: 1.0-1.8 ACH (leaky)
1980-2000 homes: 0.7-1.2 ACH (moderate)
2000-2010 homes: 0.5-0.9 ACH (average)
2010+ homes: 0.35-0.6 ACH (tight)
Passive House certified: 0.2-0.3 ACH (very tight)
Adjust upward if your home has many windows, fireplace, attic access, or visible cracks. Adjust downward if recently air-sealed, spray-foamed, or Energy Star certified.
Common Air Leakage Points
Top 10 Leak Sources (Ordered by Impact)
1. Attic Access & Pull-Down Stairs (15-25% of leakage)
Homes below 0.35 ACH need mechanical ventilation (ERV or HRV) to:
Prevent indoor air quality problems (CO2, VOCs, odors build up)
Control moisture (humid air trapped indoors causes mold)
Provide fresh air for occupants
Target range: 0.35-0.5 ACH is ideal—tight enough for energy savings, loose enough to avoid IAQ issues without mechanical ventilation.
ERV vs HRV
ERV (Energy Recovery Ventilator): Transfers heat AND humidity between incoming/outgoing air. Best for hot-humid climates (prevents bringing in humid outdoor air).
HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator): Transfers heat only. Best for cold-dry climates.